...last days. ~Dan Searby

One last missive -- for the religious and history buff, The Holy Land is a bi-fecta. Add Jesus and you have the Trinity-fecta.

Yesterday, we had a free morning. Went to the Church of The Holy Sepulchre for an early Mass -- inside the ante-room of the tomb. Some good walking around East Jerusalem -- a very non-confrontational group of Palestinians just going about their every day business -- live and let live ethos. They are a lovely people and it is nice to see the other more hopeful side of the Arab street.

We went to a very ancient Syrian Orthodox Church after lunch that claims the site of The Upper Room -- site of The Last Supper, two post-resurrection appearances ("Peace be with you"; and the wonderful testimony of heretofore doubting Thomas -- "My Lord and my God!").. Session led by a Syriac Orthodox Nun who testified to the miracles she has seen including appearances from Jesus. We went down to the Upper Room -- many of the historical sites are beneath today's levels as we tend to build on and over older sites. Upper Room, particulary with the Syrian set-up, was appropriately mystical.

We went on to the Church of The Dormition, site of The Blessed Mother Mary's passing. They also had a competing Latin site of the Upper Room (things can get confusing in the Holy Land) and to compound the historical gyrations, the site of King David's Tomb was right next door. Can't vouch to the historical accuracy -- we were told that the Israeli government seized a church by imminent domain (hope I spelled this correctly -- Bruce -- if you are out there...). The site itself is rather shabby and quite unbefitting of the greatest King of Israel -- a velveteen curtain and a half finished room with exposed electrical fixtures and two Orthodox Jews keeping prayer vigil.

We went on to The Church of St. Peter Gallicantu, the site of the High Priest Caiphas' house, where Jesus was brought after Gethsemane, imprisoned and where Peter denied the Lord three times. There is a modernist Church -- lots of those in The Holy Land, and a lower crypt that gives every impression of a jail, replete with carvings into the stone for shackles. It felt very real and there are steps up to the house from the Mount of Olives that date back to Jesus' time.

We had a lovely sung Eucharist in the Cathedral of St. George's as preparation for the next morning. The Anglican Cathedral and its surrounding gardens are very much a piece of England in the Holy Land.

This morning, we got up as a group quite early for the Stations of The Cross. We started at 6 am from the College of St. George in East Jerusalem and carrying a large cross, tried to be unobtrusive and non-triumphant as we walked through Arab East Jerusalem and through Herod's Gate. Once we entered the Old City, I distinctly heard the crowing of a rooster -- others in our group said they heard it crow three times. We started at the first station, where Jesus was brought before Pilate. We each took a turn doing a reading and then carrying the cross and made our way to Calvary and The Church of The Holy Sepulchre. It was quite solemn and powerful. We largely had the Old City and Via Dolorosa to ourselves. As a new arrival to Catholicism, it was my first Stations of The Cross. The stories and visual images are off the charts powerful -- Christ meeting his Mother Mary along the way -- falling down three times -- poor Simon being conscripted by the Romans to carry Jesus' cross. The pathway is quite narrow with inclines and sharp turns. Being there takes you there.

We had an incongruously hearty breakfast at a spiffy Lutheran Pilgrim Center right next to the the Church of The Holy Sepulchre, which came out of a nice land deal the Germans made with their WW I allies, the Turks, who then controlled Palestine before the Brits took control after WW I. We then went into Holy Sepulchre and lined up with a large Jordanian-Californian pilgrim group. We were allowed to enter the tomb itself in groups of four which was a very special experience. We also went upstairs to the site of Calvary and The Holy Cross -- mixing the sequence as we had gone to the tomb first, but richly experiencing what are arguably the two most important sites of Christendom.

We split into small groups after this and had a nice lunch at Abu Shukri, where Frommer's and Simon Montefiore (Brit Historian) says the best hummus in Jerusalem is found. After lunch, four of us were able to get into the Armenian Orthodox Chapel of St. James for Vespers and when the Cathedral is then closed to the public. One of our hosts from St. George's, Ben (see his picture back at the beginning of the postings), was friendly with a high ranking priest, Father Emmanuel ("God with Us") who gave us a behind the scenes tour of a site founded by James, the Greater, the Lord's Brother (though the Latin Church disagree on this genealogy), James was the first Bishop of Jerusalem and also the first martyr among the Apostles. There is a chapel where his head is enshrined (he was sadly beheaded). A very special highlight was being invited into the monastery by Father Emmanuel for tea and a long conversation. There were two lovely young ladies that were with us through Ben's auspices -- these "English Roses" were probably why we were given the behind the scenes tour.

We wound up back at St. George's and had a nice reception and our graduation ceremony this evening. We had some post dinner fellowship and discussion -- we have been christened "The Brotherhood of the Cross" (though I suggested the more Tolkienesque "Fellowship of the Cross"). Tomorrow we wrap up our pilgrimage with the post resurrection "Road to Emmaus" and fly home that night.

Here comes some personal reflections -- thus far, have disappointingly not had any great epiphanies or mystical moments. At the same time, it has been a most peaceful journey, atypical for someone who is a somewhat nervous, certainly hurried traveler (remember Chevy Chase at the Grand Canyon in "Vacation"? -- "o.k., we saw it, let's go!").

While the mountaintop moments have largely been lacking -- even, ironically on Mount Tabor, site of the Transfiguration, I will be able to carry this journey with me the rest of my life. Never will any reading or sermon be filtered in the pre-pilgrimage way. Perhaps it is like childhood Christian education -- you don't fully appreciate it at the time but it lies in store and is drawn upon and there as you go through life -- our "Bread for the Journey".

Most importantly, the trip confirms my belief. The audacious claims of Christianity -- Virgin birth, wondrous miracles, resurrection -- they unfold here in the traditions, landscape and shared belief held by millions of diverse peoples of all races and nations, experienced over tens of hundred of years. It is all true.

Pilate asked Jesus, "Quid est veritas?"

Jesus, the Son of God, stayed silent -- characteristically restrained. He who had all power and authority, never misused his power and authority. This pilgrimage has confirmed my faith and belief. It is all true.

Thanks be to God.